Look after it and it outlives you.
A hand-forged knife asks for a few minutes of attention. In exchange it stays sharp for decades.
After every use
- Wipe the blade dry. Moisture is the enemy, especially on carbon steel.
- Clean off anything acidic — blood, citrus, onion, tomato — before storing.
- A thin film of oil on carbon and Damascus blades. Mineral oil, camellia oil, or food-safe oil for kitchen knives.
Never do this
- No dishwasher. It will ruin the edge, the handle, and the finish. This voids the warranty.
- No soaking in the sink.
- No prying, throwing, or hammering with the blade. It's a knife, not a chisel or a crowbar.
- No leather storage long-term. Leather holds moisture against steel. Sheaths are for carry, not for the safe.
Patina on carbon steel
A grey-blue patina is not damage — it is a protective oxide layer that slows real rust. Let it form. If you want to speed it up, cut an apple and leave the juice on for an hour. Red-orange rust is different: scrub it off with fine steel wool and oil, then keep the blade dry.
Sharpening
Whetstone is best. Work through the grits, keep a consistent angle, finish with a strop.
- Angle: around 20° per side for hunting and camp knives; around 15° for kitchen blades.
- Strop often, sharpen rarely. Most dull knives just need a strop, not steel removal.
- Avoid pull-through sharpeners. They tear the edge instead of grinding it.
Handle care
Wood scales appreciate a light coat of paste wax or mineral oil once or twice a year. Micarta and resin need nothing but a wipe.
Not confident sharpening? Send it back — see our warranty.