Medieval Arming Sword, Hand Forged Carbon Steel with Wheel Pommel
Medieval Arming Sword, Hand Forged Carbon Steel with Wheel Pommel
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The medieval arming sword is the straight double edged pattern with a long crossguard and a round flat wheel pommel. This one is hand forged in 5160 spring steel, 31 inches of blade and 38 inches overall, with dark iron fittings and a leather wrapped grip over a wooden core. It ships in a hand tooled leather scabbard with a steel throat and tip. It goes to collectors who want the medieval shape.
Specification
| Blade length | 31 inches |
| Overall length | 38 inches |
| Handle length | 5 inches |
| Blade steel | 5160 spring steel |
| Blade finish | Polished bright, narrow fuller down the center of each side for about two thirds of its length, mirror bright bevels |
| Guard | Long straight crossguard in dark iron with slightly flared ends |
| Pommel or collar | Round flat wheel pommel in dark iron, raised center, tang peened over it |
| Handle | Dark brown leather over a wooden core, cord riser underneath |
| Scabbard | Tooled leather, steel throat and tip, one belt strap |
| Engraving | 20 dollars per piece |
| Made in | Forged and finished by hand in High Point, North Carolina. |
| Warranty | Lifetime warranty against defects, free sharpening for life. |
The blade
The steel is 5160 spring steel, tough under impact and easy to bring back on a stone. The blade is 31 inches, straight and double edged. Against the viking pattern the crossguard is longer, the point tapers more gradually and the pommel is a round flat wheel rather than the lobed Norse shape. A narrow fuller runs down the center of each side for about two thirds of the length, a groove ground into the flat that takes weight out of the middle without narrowing it. The face is polished bright, both edges taken to a mirror bright bevel. Carbon steel is the honest trade, so it darkens and rusts if left wet.
The fittings
The crossguard is dark iron, long and straight, with the ends slightly flared. The pommel is the wheel, a round flat disc of the same iron with a raised center on each face, over a grip of 5 inches. The tang is the steel that carries on past the blade shoulders. It runs through the grip and out through the middle of the wheel, and the end is hammered over until it spreads. That is a peened tang. Nothing is glued or threaded, so the fittings stay clamped as one stack.
The handle
The core of the grip is wood, shaped to the tang and then wrapped in dark brown leather. Under the leather sits a cord riser, a length of cord wound round the core so it stands up as a raised ridge through the covering. Your hand finds it without looking. The leather is drawn over the top, pulled tight and closed along the back, and its color deepens where it is handled.
The scabbard
The scabbard is hand tooled leather, cut and stitched around this blade so it goes in snug. A steel throat is fitted at the mouth and a steel tip closes the bottom, with one leather belt strap on the back. The face is carved with a vine and leaf pattern inside a stamped border, cut into damp leather with a swivel knife and shaded by hand rather than printed on. Most listings stop at the words genuine leather. Ours has a tooled face, metal at both ends and hand stitching down the seam.
Who it suits
This is the shape people picture when they say medieval sword, and the plain dark iron keeps it quiet next to a brass fitted piece.
- Collectors who want the medieval shape beside the Norse one
- Anyone buying a first sword in this pattern
- People who want hand forged steel rather than stock removal
- Buyers looking for a piece to display at home
What comes in the box
- The hand forged arming sword
- The tooled leather scabbard
- A care card
Every piece is different
Every blade is forged, ground and finished by hand, so runs stay small and no two come out the same. The polish, the leather and the depth of the carving will differ from the photographs. Yours is its own piece.
Looking after it
Wipe the blade dry after handling and never put it away wet. The gray patina that builds on carbon steel is normal and it protects the surface underneath. Give it a light coat of oil before storage. Do not leave the sword inside the scabbard for months at a time, since leather holds moisture against steel, and let the leather dry slowly away from heat. More in our care and sharpening page.
Put a name on it
Laser engraving is 20 dollars per piece and you add it here on the product page. Around 30 characters fits on a blade or a fitting, so a name or a short line sits better than a paragraph. We send a proof image before the laser runs, and it adds 3 to 5 business days. See the engraving page.
Questions buyers ask
How does the arming sword shape differ from the viking one? The crossguard is longer, the point tapers more gradually, and the pommel is a round flat wheel rather than a lobed shape.
What is a fuller? A groove down the center of each side of the blade. It takes weight out of the middle of the blade without narrowing it.
What is a peened tang? The tang runs through the grip and out through the pommel, and its end is hammered over until it spreads and locks.
Will 5160 rust? It can, so dry it after handling and keep a light film of oil on it.
How long until it ships and can I return it? Most US orders arrive in 5 to 7 business days with USPS. Returns are within 30 days, unused and in the original packaging with the scabbard.
Is it legal to own? Sword and long blade laws vary by state, city and country, so check your local rules before you order.
For the Norse shape in 5160, see the hand forged viking sword, and for a layered blade there is the Damascus viking sword. The rest sit in hand forged swords, historical blades and gifts for him.